A

AMT - advanced manufacturing technology - Integrated use of CAD/CAM and robotics to produce goods more cheaply and efficiently.

acrylonitrile - a tough rigid plastic. Used for making plastic heels.

albert - a men's slipper style with a tongue like extension of the upper over the instep.

alcohol - solvent used for cleaning. Flammable and poisonous. aniline leather - leather finished with an aniline dye, which gives a natural look.

antique finish - upper finished to give an impression of age by overspraying selected areas with a darker, contrasting finish.

anti-static - shoe with metal plug in sole to ensure static electricity is safely earthed to avoid sparks in areas where flammable gases are present or sudden electrical discharge could cause damage.

apres ski - shoes or other articles of apparel designed for wear after ski-ing.

apron front - vamp made up of flat apron laid over side of forepart.

arch - part of plantar that does not touch the ground. Most commonly used of metatarsal arch.

arch support - area of insole built up and strengthened to support metatarsal arch, or similar support which can be inserted in the shoe separately.

aromatlc amines - a series of compounds that can be liberated from azo dyestuffs and have similar carcinogenic physiologic properties.

azo dyestuffs - a series of brightly coloured compounds with the general structure Ar-N-N-Ar which are banned in a number of countries due to their carcinogenic physiological properties.

B

backing, or backer - fabric laminated to a weak material to give it strength and to help it stand up.

bagged top - a method of binding the top line of an upper so that no stitches can be seen, giving a very soft feel and look.

ball - the swelling at the inner side of the foot where the big toe joins the head of the first metatarsal bone. The main line of flexing of the foot, and hence of the shoe occurs across this point, which is

ballerina - flat heeled (not more than one lift) pump designed to resemble ballet shoe.

ballet shoe - a very light type of heelless shoe with upper of satin or other fabric, designed for ballet dancing. Held on the foot by ribbons, arising from the quarters on each side, tied over the instep. Made in two types, soft toe for general ballet dance training and hard toe (blocked toe) for use, where the routine includes dancing on points (that is, on the tip of the big toe).

bar shoe - any shoe held on the foot by bars across the instep. Any number of bars can be used, and they can be arranged in various ways e.g. T Bars.

bark tanned - leather vegetable tanned by the tannins contained in the bark of trees, the leather in process is in contact with the raw bark.

baseline - last designed with standard bottom measurements to facilitate the design and manufacture of components to fit.

beading - a tubular decoration, usually between the upper and the sole, but sometimes on the upper.

beeswax - prepared from the honey-comb. An ingredient of some shoe polishes. Also used in hand finishing leather soles.

bellows tongue - tongue in a lace up shoe which is joined to the upper at the sides as well as the bottom.

bend - sole leather made from the rear portion of a heavy cattle hide divided along the line of the backbone, after removal of the bellies and shoulder.

benzene-benzol - solvent obtained from coal tar. Good solvent for grease and rubber. Used for making rubber solution and has been used for cleaning shoe uppers. Toxic and highly flammable. Ventilation in a working area vitally important. See benzine.

benzine - a solvent derived from mineral oil refining. Used for cleaning purposes and rubber solution. Less toxic than benzene but highly flammable. Ventilation of working area very important.

bespoke - footwear made to measure to the highest specifications. In most cases a last is made especially to fit the wearer's foot, and stored by the bespoke maker.

BFA - British Footwear Association.

binding - tape or leather strip covering raw edges of leather round top line to hold outer and lining together and give a neat, durable finish.

blake sewn - a method of shoe construction in which the sole is attached to the upper and insole by a single chain-stitched seam directly through the insole inside the shoe to the outsole. No welt is used.

BLC - British Leather Confederation.

blind eyelets - eyelets inserted and clenched on the lining, only small punched holes being visible on the tabs.

block co-polymer - chemical compound of two polymers believed to be disposed in the molecule as individual molecular blocks, each responding differently to physical changes, giving the compound different qualities, for example thermoplasticity when heated, which the co-polymer would not otherwise have.

boarding - process of stamping a surface finish on leather to give the impression of a different grain to the natural one. Commonly used on sides and splits to make them resemble calf or even kid.

bones of the foot - it is interesting though not essential for the shoe fitter to study the anatomy of the foot in detail. It is more instructive for him (or her) to understand how the bones move in relation to each other and the differing degrees of restricted movement between them. In a men's shoe with rather high cut quarters it is sometimes possible for the topline to press painfully on the outer ankle bones when the leg i.e. angled outwardly sideways with respect to the foot.

bootee - a women's style, having an upper extending slightly above the ankle. Designed for fashion and comfort, with upper of soft, flexible material. A similar style, with center zip fastener, is popular for men's warm lined slippers.

box calf - full chrome tanned calf leather, in the UK this is black, other colours being described as willow calf.

Brannock device - a foot-measuring device having a slide piece adjustable to show the length of the foot and another slide piece which can be moved to show the distance of the ball of the foot from the heel. This measurement is used in conjunction with the foot length measurement to give the shoe size required. The device also indicates appropriate widths. The Brannock system is widely used in America, where it originated.

BRMA - British Rubber Manufacturers' Association.

brogue shoe - a closed front tie shoe, the upper comprising several parts each punched and serrated (gimped) along the margins, together with a punched and gimped wing cap. A brogue effect is often achieved in other styles of shoe by punching and gimping.

brushed pigskin - pigskin leather having the display surface finished with a velvet- like nap.

BSAIF - British Sports and Allied Industries Federation.

BSI - British Standards Institution. BTBS - Boot Trade Benevolent Society.

built heel - heel built of layers, or lifts of leather or leatherboard, the layers and bonding lines showing contrasts of tone or colour which add to fashion interest.

bunlon - an inflammation of the tissues over a joint, caused by pressure and/or friction. It most commonly develops over the protruberant metatarso-phalangeal joint of the big toe in cases of hallux valgus.

byte - a sequence of bits, which might for example be eight, proceed by a computer or held in a computer memory as a unit. It is the unit which designates the memory size. A 24k computer, for example, would have a memory of approximately 24,000 bytes.

C

CAD - Computer Aided Design - a shoe design is prepared on the screen of a computer it is then put into the computer memory. It can then be modified and sectional patterns produced and all grading completed. Patterns can then be cut by laser water jet or mechanical cutter on instructions from the computer. Some systems can show 3D pictures of the designs.

calf - leather made from the skin of a young or immature bovine animal, the skin not exceeding a certain weight. In the UK this is 16kg green weight. The weight classification differs in various countries. Skins over 7kg of immature milk-fed animals are sometimes described as veals.

calf side - calf skin split down the line of the backbone. Calf side is often a euphemism for skin of an older animal dressed to resemble calf leather.

Californian - a method of making where the upper and platform cover is sewn to an insock. The last is then forced in. The platform is then attached and the cover lasted over before the sole is attached. used for casual and women's and children's sandals. It is a variant of the sliplasting construction.

CAM - Computer Aided Manufacture - The data in the computer from CAD can be used to control cutting tools, presses, lasers, water jet, or mechanical cutters and an increasing range of other machines: - M.C. milling machines for moulds and lasts, sewing machines, roughing and the new generation of robots.

cap and counter - upper design having a separate toe-cap and stiffener cover, usually in contrasting colours. See spectator and co-respondent.

cape - a very soft leather much used for comfort shoes. It is also used for gloves, and is often referred to as glove leather.

carnauba - a hard wax coating from the

leaves of certain Brazilian palm trees. A high-cost material used as a component of high-grade shoe polishes and creams enabling them to produce a lasting high gloss on leather.

CEC - Confederation Europene des Chaussures. The confederation of European footwear manufacturers federations. They seek to represent the views of the shoe industry to the European parliament, and to promote the improvement of the industry in Europe.

cellulose board - top quality insole material made from alpha cellulose of the highest quality with a polymeric binder. Typical brand names are Bontex and Texon. (The word Texon now applies to all BUSM insole materials.)

CE Mark - the mark of conformity used to demonstrate compliance with a number of European Directives (e.g. those covering toys, PPE, etc.)

cement lasted - method of lasting where the forepart upper is attached to the insole with hot adhesive instead of tacks.

cemented construction - bonding the sole of the upper by means of a cement, usually heat and pressure activated. This produces a shoe which is light, flexible and neat, as well as being cheaper to produce than more traditional methods. It is much used for light dress shoes and unit soles. If the bonding is not correctly carried out the sole will come away from the upper.

CFHR - Children's Foot Health Register.

CFI - Clothing and Footwear Institute. The professional organisation of the clothing and footwear industries for individuals. It organizes conferences and local branch meetings, publishes a magazine and sets examinations, which if passed lead to associateship (ACFI), the professional qualification of the industry. ACFI is awarded at age 24 following 2 years in a position of responsibility, fellowship (FCFI) is awarded for a special contribution to the industry or in recognition of a thesis.

chappal, or chuplee - a type of sandal, originating in India. The vamp consists of two wide straps, one on each side of the forepart, crossing over and extending round the heel, and adjustable for size by a buckle near the back. A looped strap at each side of the heel holds the straps in position relative to the sole. Also used of a sandal held on the foot by a toe-post and loop.

chevette - leather made from thin goat- skin. Used for gloves.

Children's Foot Health Register - in an effort to improve the foot health of the children of this country, the Children's Foot Health Register has been compiled, listing retailers in geographical locations who have undertaken to have shoes in stock in a choice of four width fittings in full and half sizes, and who have staff trained to measure the feet and width and fit correctly at the time of sale. The minimum requirements are that footwear for children is available in the shop in whole and half sizes from infants size 3 through to girl's and boy's size 5 in four width fittings. In addition members are expected to carry a minimum stock of sandals at the start of the summer season in full and half-sizes and four width fittings. The Children's Foot Health Register is revised annually. Details from the Administrator, Children's Foot Health Register, 84-88 Great Eastern Street, London EC2A 3ED.

chiropody - remedial care of the foot, especially dealing with corns, toe nail disorders and toe displacements (pronounce ky-rop-ody).

Chiropodist - one who practices chiropody.

chrome tanned - leather tanned solely with salts of chromium.

chukka boot - men's low boot with capless vamp and high cut quarters, two-hole lace, used for casual riding and leisure wear. Often in soft suede, designed for comfort.

Clarino - a poromeric shoe upper material made by Kuraray Co., Japan and distributed in the UK by BUSM Co. It has a synthetic fibre base layer, a microcellular polyurethane layer and a finish coat simulating the grain of leather.

claw foot - see pes cavua.

clicking - traditional name of the cutting out by hand knife of the upper components of a shoe. As most uppers are now cut by strip steel dies in a press the term cutting is more commonly used.

clog - originally used for a boot or a shoe with wooden sole, or in some cases, entirely of wood. Recently plastic soles have been introduced, either rigid synthetic imitations of wood or flexible.

closed front - the front of an oxford shoe or other men's shoe style having the eyelet tabs stitched under the vamp (compare derby, oxford.)

closing - stitching together the cut components of the outside and lining of a shoe upper.

coated fabrics - fabrics transfer-coated with PU or PVC.

colour fastness - resistance of the colour of materials to the different agencies to which these materials may be exposed during manufacture and their subsequent use.

Computer Integrated Manufacture - an integrated approach to manufacturing based on the widespread use of computer information and technology.

construction - the basic method of making the shoe. In most cases this applies to the way the sole is attached to the upper.

consumer complaints - a product that is returned to the retailer as a result of its performance galling below the customers expectations.

co-polymer - a chemical compound formed by the polymerization of two different monomers.

cordovan - a leather used for some men's high-grade shoe uppers, tanned from the shell of a horse butt, a kidney shaped very compact layer isolated by removing the skin layer above and the flesh layer below.

cordwalner - an old word for a shoe-maker. One who hand-made shoes in Cordovan leather. Now means any shoemaker.

co-respondent - men's cap and counter shoe with cap and counter in contrasting colour to remainder of shoe.

Corfam - synthetic upper material which reproduces most of the properties of leather.

corrected grain leather - leather from which the grain layer has been partially removed by buffing and upon which a new surface has been built up by various finishes.

COSHH - Control of Substances Hazardous to Health.

counter - see: Stiffener. Also used of upper component of similar appearance covering stiffener.

counter lining - portion of lining covering counter. This should be made of a rough surfaced material to inhibit heel slip.

court shoe - woman's low cut shoe which is only held on the foot by its shape and the stiffener. Heel height at least 1 inch. Originally designed to be worn at court and for other formal occasions when little walking was needed.

crepe - natural rubber soling material made by drying latex from rubber tree. Very hard-wearing and flexible, but slips on wet surfaces, which is why a wet knife is uses to cut it. Small pieces are used in finishing room to remove marks on uppers.

crock - particles which can be removed from suede leather by dry rubbing.

cross Linking - a polymerization process in which the molecular chains produce, during development, side chains joining the principal chains together. The degree of cross linking can be closely controlled chemically. This affects physical properties, giving considerable choice, for example of tensile strength.

cuban heel - a type of heel 4-10mm high with a straight breast, little or no curvature to back and sides, tapering very slightly to a fairly broad top-piece. Usually knock-on.

curried leather - leather finished by

D

derby - men's boot or shoe with the eyelet tabs stitched on the outside of the vamp (see also Gibson).

diamante - imitation diamond. Available in strips set in a plastics matrix. Use for trims.

diamante patent - coloured translucent patent which allows the grain to show through giving a sparkling effect.

di-Isocyanate - one of the two essentireagents from which polyurethane made. See resln-mlx.

DIN - Deutsche Industrie Norm - German equivalent of British Standard.

direct-moulded - a construction method by which the sole, of rubber, PVC other mouldable material is moulded direct onto the upper, by vulcanisation injection moulding or reaction moulding.

Direct Vulcanized (DV) - compression or injection moulding of an unvulcanized compound directly onto the shoe bottom which forms one face of the mould.

dlscolouration - an undesired change in colour. This can be an incompatibility or instability problem with components, materials, finishes, etc., of footwear due to a variety of causes, which include light, heat, water, atmospheric pollutants and chemical additives.

DMF - i-methyl formamide - a solvent capable of holding in solution the polmerised compound as it is being converted to microcellular polyurethane in sheet form. It is miscible with water, a fact essential to this process.

d'Orsay - a variation of the court style having the sides cut away at the waist so that the shoe is held on the foot by the stiffener and the vamp only. this is not very practical, although very attractive, and the fashion is usually short lived as a result. See: half d'Orsay.

dorsiflex - a foot movement. To flex the foot upward so that the dorsum (upper surface) approaches nearer to the leg.

dresslng - application of polishes or gloss promoting materials, etc., to shoe uppers to improve the appearance.

DTI - Department of Trade and Industry.

dubbin - oily dressing for heavy duty footwear designed to keep the leather supple and waterproof. Much used by walkers and climbers, etc.

E

EC Directives - legislation relating to rules and regulations issued by the European Union.

eco labeling - labeling of a product which indicates that it meets agreed standards for its environmental impact during its production, distribution, sue and disposal.

EFTPOS - Electronic Fund Transfer at Point-Of-Sale. System which debits buyer's and credits seller\quote s bank account instantly transaction takes place.

elasticity - the property of a body or material by which it stretches or under- goes other deformation under stress and resumes its original form when the stress is removed. If the stress continues beyond the limit of the material the material does not fully recover the original form. Elasticity is measured by the elastic modulus which is the ratio of stress to deformation.

elastomer - material having elastic properties.

eletrostatlc precipitation - process whereby a surface is electrostatically charges and particles are drawn to it, thus being spread over it very closely and regularly. Used for making synthetic suedes and colouring components.

embosslng - a method of decorating

leather by pressing a heated die onto the surface. Used by hand on shoe uppers or leathergoods, or by machine on complete skins to give simulated impression of e.g. reptile skin.

EMAP shoe machinery show, Civitanova Marche, Italy.

Environmental Management Systems - requirements for the development, implementation and maintenance of management systems aimed at ensuring compliance with stated environment policy and objectives.

EPA - Environmental Protection Act.

EPOS - Electronic Point of Sale. Refers to systems which update stock and cash records electronically direct from data supplied from data inputted by till operation.

ergonomlcs - the study of the working environment relative to work performance. Directed to the design of machines and factors in the environment to enable the individual to work most efficiently.

ethylene-propylene rubber - a synthetic rubber made by the polymerization of approximately equal proportions of the two gases ethylene and propylene.

ethylene vinyl acetate (EVA) - chemical compound with rubbery properties appropriate for soling in the blown or microcellular form. It is light weighing, its properties can be considerably modified according to the proportions of ethylene and vinyl acetate in the copolymer. Also used as the basis for adhesives.

European Norm (EN) - European Standard supplied by BSI.

exerclse sandal - sandal with single adjustable strap across forepart and a wooden or moulded plastic sole having a cup for the heel, a metatarsal arch support and a raised ridge under the phalangic arch, which forces the foot muscles to work during the action of walking

EXSL - Exhibition of Sports and Leisure. A new series of exhibitions organized by BSAIF to be held at Olympia, London to replace the international sports and leisure trade show ISLE.

eyelet - hole for lacing, but often embellished as a fashion feature.

eyelet tab - the front part of the quarters, overlaying the instep, carrying the eyelets.

F

Feather, feather line or edge - the boundary line around the upper where it joins the welt or the sole; the corresponding line around an insole or a last.

FEDC - Footwear Economic Development Committee.

FDF - Footwear Distributors' Federation.

flbreboard - sheet material commonly used for insoling and heel lifts made of cellulose fibre obtained from wood pulp, or from re-processed cardboard, wrapping papers, etc. The quality is closely controlled and graded according to laboratory tests. grade 1 for seat board and Grade 3 for shank board. There is no Grade 2. See also cellulose board and non-woven insole board.

FICC - footwear exhibition Elda, Spain. finishing - ironing and polishing edges and bottoms of leather soled footwear to improve both appearance and wearability. Also applied to final cleaning, polishing and checking of all footwear.

Rnite Element Analysis (FEA) - computer based technique for evaluation the stresses and strains in components under load.

Htting shoe - shoes made in more than one width in each size. the width is commonly indicated by a letter or number. Practice varies in detail but the general scheme of width markings for women's shoes made in the UK is: narrow-AA, A, B, C: medium-D, E, broad-F, G, H. Corresponding number marking for the three groups would be: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9. In men's shoes the UK classification of fittings is approximately:

narrow-A, B, C; medium-D, E, F; broad-G, H; and corresponding number groups, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8. UK practice is usually a difference of 5mm in joint girths between consecutive whole sizes up to children's size 10, and 6.5mm difference between joint girths of sizes above 10. The classification of width measurements as narrow, medium and broad can only be an approximation. There may be differences between one manufacturer's scale of fittings and another's arising, for example, from fashion changes of forepart shape.

flash - rubber or plastic which, in a moulding operation, may exude from the mould through minute gaps at the mould parting lines, or where the feather meets the side moulds in direct-moulding. It must be trimmed off by hand or machine, which is difficult to do perfectly.

flat foot, pes planus - clinical features of this condition are a tilting inwardly of the os calcis and displacement of the head of the astragulus downwards. The result is an inward tilting of the heel, observable from the rear when the sufferer is standing. another feature is abduction of the foot, that is, displacement of the forefoot outwardly or away from the median line of the body. This is sometimes called pronation. A result of the changes described is that the inner border of the foot is lengthened. Arch supports of various kinds and the shoemaking practice of providing a built-in support by raising the inner side of the waist of the shoe have probably helped to prevent cases of weak foot or incipient flat foot from becoming worse. Chiropodists can offer diagnosis and recommendations for exercises and re-education of the sufferer's attitude in walking, which is said to be an important remedial factor. The shoe fitter clearly has a problem in providing from his stock a shoe with forepart design appropriate to accommodate even a moderately pronated foot. A wide-fitting nature form shoe and an arch support may be worthwhile lines of approach.

flesh, flesh side - the inner side of an animal skin or piece of leather; opposite to the grain, grain side, or outer side.

floppy disc - plastic disc with metallic coating which can store electronic signals. Used in computers to store data.

flow moulding - process which uses a mould cast from an original model in cold curing silicone rubber. Reproduction is achieved by pressing PVC upper material against the mould in a special press where it is subjected to high-frequency, high-voltage electric current which momentarily fuses the PVC by molecular excitation. This process enables complex designs in leather uppers to be copied in PVC very cheaply.

folding - the most usual word for an upper edge treatment where a narrow margin of the edge is folded over, skived and secured by adhesive. A few areas in the UK call this operation beading.

foot beds - an insert which is shaped or moulded to match the approximate contours of the bottom surface of the foot. Such insets are widely used in trainers and sports shoes.

Footwear Testing Center - set up as a result of the footwear code of practice the testing center acts as an arbitrator when disputes occur over faulty footwear between the customers and the retailer. Its address is 249, Rockingham Road, Kettering, Northants (01536 410000). The center is not able to deal with shoes sent in by private individuals.

force lasting - the upper is formed into a bag and the last is forced into it.

forepart - the front part of the shoe or sole, from the waist forwards.

forme - the pattern, in the flat, representing as nearly as practicable the shape of the contoured surface of the last, from which the upper component shapes are derived.

foxing - a thin strip of rubber or crepe rubber attached by cement vertically runlet; the edge of some shoes. When in crepe sometimes known as a curtain.

french binding - a method of finishing the topline by binding it with a tape of fabric or plastic material. Sometimes called galloon binding.

G

ghillie shoe - a tie shoe in which the lace passes through rings or loops, usually metal, stitched into the margin of the front opening, instead of through eyelets.

gibson - women's lace-up style in which the quarters are laid over the vamp and drawn together by a lace. Sometimes called; a lorne shoe it is the women's equivalent to a men's derby.

gimping - saw-toothed edge to leather resembling pinking in fabric.

girth - the measurement round the wide part of the foot, namely the ball or joint. Used in several shoe fitting systems instead of simply the width. It is superior to the width system because it is possible for two people with the same foot width to have different joint girth measurements. The width system takes no account of the 'depth', that is the thickness of the foot a the forepart. The fitter takes account of it when he sees the customer's foot and suggests an appropriate width fitting.

glace kid - upper leather made from chrome( tanned kidskin, finished with a smooth glossy surface. Also called glazed kid.

glazed goat - similar to glace kid, but from adult animal. The grain is coarser, and the leather more inclined to crease.

global resourcing - the search for shoes, closed uppers and components from overseas.

golosh - an overshoe in waterproof material from protection against rain, snow, mud, etc. Also refers to the part of a boot which covers the foot, as opposed to the leg.

grain - the pattern of pores and other surface peculiarities, characteristic of the animal concerned, visible on the outer surface of a hide or skin after the hair or wool has been removed.

grain layer - the layer of a hide or skin extending from the surface after removal of the hair or wool and epidermis down to about the level of the hair or wool roots.

grain leather - leather with a grain sufficiently pronounced to be used as a decorative feature.

grecian slipper - one with quarters and

vamp both curving downwards to overlap on both sides near the sole, leaving a V- shape cut-away appearance at the waist.

grindery - trade name for tacks, staples, rivets, stapling wire, etc., used in shoemaking.

H

half d'Orsay - similar to d'Orsay but only outside of court is cut out.

half-sole - sole covering the tread or forepart of the foot only. It is much cheaper to replace a worn sole with a half sole than a long sole.

hallux rigidus - a painful affliction of the big toe, with restriction of movement, the toe being held in the extended position, or sometimes slightly dorsiflexed. Very little, if any, dorsiflexion is possible. In a related condition, hallux flexus, the toe is rigidly plantar flexed.

hallux valgus - a sideways deviation of the big toe toward the other toes. It is associated with the development of a prominence on the inner side of the joint, which then develops a protective bursa. The bursa may become inflamed, resulting in a bunion. The first metatarsal head, or joint to which the shoe fitter takes the heel- to-ball measure, is much more prominent than is normal, and the forefoot is wider because of the larger than average angle between the first and second metatarsal shafts. The condition is often found in a foot with a larger than average angle between the first and second metatarsal shafts, which is an inherited characteristic. The cause of hallux valgus is not clear. It may be pointed toe shoes, shoes fitted too short or too narrow, or a combination of

heat setting - giving an upper more permanent shape retention while it is on the last by the application of heat or steam for a short period instead of a longer period under strain.

heel attachment - by barbed nails, screws or staples. It is vital that this is correctly done, particularly in the case of high heels, otherwise the heel may come off.

heel to ball measure - the measured distance of the ball of the foot from the heel end. A shoe selected to fit the foot should have a corresponding measure from heel to widest part of the forepart. The relationship of this measure to the total foot length is the basis of the Brannock system. See Brannock device.

heel breast - the front surface of a shoe heel.

heel grip - small suede-covered pad which can be stuck to counter lining of shoe to reduce size at heel and prevent foot slipping out of shoe.

heel height - the vertical distance from the center of the top-piece where it contacts the ground to the seat of the shoe. There is, however, much difference of opinion as to how this measurement should be taken, because of differences of seat angle with the horizontal and top-piece location in a fore and aft sense. The above definition assumes that the center of the top-piece is vertically below the center of pressure of the weight-bearing protuberance of the lower surface of the heel bone. In practice the height is most commonly measured at the back of the heel, vertically upward from ground surface to seat.

heel pitch - angle between axis and heel and base line. If heel axis is not vertical damage may result.

hide - the outer covering of a mature or fully-grown animal of the larger kind, for example cattle, horse, camel, whale. In France the word is used for adult bovine animals only. In Germany, it also applies to pigs, reptiles, fishes and birds.

hollow foot - see pes cavus

house shoes - another name for slippers, used in the language of some countries in Europe where a stouter construction is

I

ICHSLTA - International Committee of Hide, Skin and Leather Trades Association

IFRA - Independent Footwear Retailers' Association

IFSA - Instock Footwear Suppliers Association

IMBEX - Men's and Boys' Wear Exhibition, London.

Infra-red - heat radiation. Radiation in the spectrum of electromagnetic radiations of wavelengths longer than visible light and shorter than radio frequencies. Not visible to the naked eye.

injection mouldlng - a method of moulding a sole unit, for example, using PVC or other thermoplastic material, by melting the material in the heated barrel of an injection moulding machine and injecting it under pressure into the mould cavity. This is a cheap method of mass- producing shoes. The sole is flexible, waterproof long-wearing, with excellent adhesion, but tends to crack after a while.

Insock - a thin layer of materials put in to the shoe after manufacture to cover the insole.

insole - light sole conforming to the shape of the bottom of the last to which the upper and the bottom are attached to make the shoe. In most constructions, therefore, it forms the foundation of the shoe. It is made of leather, leatherboard or fibreboard, and needs to be flexible and able to absorb moisture. In many cases it is covered by an in sock after making to cover any nails, stitches, etc. which may protrude.

instep - the upper surface of the foot above the waist area.

InterCIM - SATRA's International Initiative to assist the footwear industry in the development and application of computer integrated manufacturing techniques.

iron - unit of measurement of thickness of sole leather and edges of shoes. One iron is 46th of an inch.

ionomer - a class of elastomers in which the molecular structure may be of hydrocarbon type, but containing metallic ions in addition.

ISLE - see EXSL.

ISO 9000 - international Standard for Quality Management and Quality Assurance.

IULTC - International Union of Leather Technologists and Chemists.

J

Jellies - footwear made entirely from PVC by the injection moulding process. Usually produced in complex open designs for casual and summer use.

Joggers - see trainers.

Jolnt - see ball. An enlarged joint is called a bunion.

Just In Time (JIT) - a method of organizing the manufacturing or business processes so that raw materials, components and sub-assemblies arrive just-in-time at the required point of manufacture. It is aimed at minimizing stocks before, during and dramatically speeding up throughout times. Teamwork and modular manufacturing systems are often employed with this approach.

L

laces - the length of a lace must be appropriate to the number of eyelets in the shoe for which it is intended. The table shows the usual classification.

lamlnatlon - joining the faces of sheets of materials together. This gives greater strength than each material would have on its own, and simplifies handling. Examples are laminated linings, which are cut at the same time as the outers, and brittle leathers such as snakes which are laminated to a backer to prevent splitting in lasting and wear.

last - a solid form of wood, plastic or metal on which a shoe is built, and which imparts its shape to the shoe. When the sole has been attached the last is removed, and the inside dimensions of the shoe should then conform to those of the last.

lasting tack - small tack used to secure upper to insole. Also used for temporary attachment of insole to last, in which case it must be removed before sole attachment. If this is not done customer dissatisfaction will certainly result.

lasting - the operation of stretching the upper over the last so that is conforms to the shape of the last, at the same time attaching it to the insole.

latex - the milky emulsion of rubber particles exuded from the bark of the rubber tree. It is coagulated to separate the water, leaving the natural rubber. Used for making natural crepe rubber and adhesives. When vulcanized it is the rubber widely used for soling, often in combination with synthetic rubber.

leather - hide or skin which retains its original fibrous structure but has been treated so that it will not rot even after absorbing water.

leatherboard - sheet material made by shredding pieces of scrap leather, suspending it in water together with a small percentage of rubber or synthetic binding material, depositing it on a wire mesh or similar support to agglutinate, and then drying. Used for insoles, etc.

leather, chrome tanned - leather tanned either solely with chromium salts or with chromium salts together with quite small amounts of some other tanning agent used merely to assist the chrome tanning process, and not in sufficient amount to alter the essential chrome-tanned character of the leather.

leather goods - articles from suitcases and purses to watchstraps.

leather, vegetable tanned - leather tanned exclusively with vegetable tanning agents, or with such materials together with small amounts of other agents used merely to assist the tanning process or to improve or modify the leather, and not in sufficient amounts to alter notably the essential vegetable-tanned character of the leather.

lifts - layers of leather or leatherboard composing